I'm wondering what acceleration and jerk settings you guys are having on your machines. Therefore I'm curious to n cr;; e = r/ ( how high your guys acceleration is for not getting shifting layers. I also want to know what you have for travel not only printing! Thanks in advance! Seems veery low as my stock was But yeah maybe that is also why I've been getting these shifts.
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Stock was really ? I know when I switched over to Marlin I saw but my stock monoprice maker select was like in the article. I'd definitely go down well below for your x and y accels, and definitely the Jerk. You should see a big difference. Let me see about the other settings. How do I send all those settings? Where do I find them? When I enabled acceleration control settings in cura 2.
Oh, well that's the default in Cura. Your firmware settings will be different. I believe your firmware will set your maximum acceleration. If you navigate the menus on your i3 you'll see what I'm talking about, or that link. Ohh okay, but how do I change these settings in the firmware? I can't connect my printer to my computer because I'm using Windows 10 and it doesn't support the drivers Also I have the plus so can't find the settings in the menu :.
Those drivers will work on Windows 8 and Within Repetier you will also need to change your connection Baud rate to I've never seen a plus myself. You've already looked at the tech manual for it? I have windows 10 and can terminal in through cura, slic3r and simplify3d on my maker select v2. What do you mean windows 10 doesn't support the drivers?
I don't imagine the plus is using some board that is all that different. I skimmed through the online manual and didn't see anything useful. Try downloading Slic3r to terminal in to make the changes. But if all else fails I think changing the accel in cura should change it for THAT print, you just have to make sure you save that profile otherwise it will just default and use the max on the printer firmware each time.
It only takes a minute to sign up. I have tried and get a lot of warping and delamination. I tried putting a large box over the printer which did help with the warping some but I am still getting some layer separation. Note that this settings vary a lot depending on humidity and other factors related to where you are printing, so it would be very useful to know where in the globe are you experimenting. Also note that humidity is very very bad for 3D Printing Filaments so keep them sealed while not using them.
I've had hit and miss success, but nothing I would consider great. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Asked 3 years, 11 months ago. Active 1 year, 8 months ago. Viewed 6k times. B Hendricks B Hendricks 1 1 silver badge 3 3 bronze badges. Some things large and flat models just can't be printed in ABS regardless of settings, and you should just use a different material.
There's a lot more at play than just your settings. The other was an L bracket about 1. This is where I got the separating layers.
I am pretty new to 3d printing and have done well with PLA but want to learn other filaments as well. You might also want to lower the bed temperature over time, like described in filaments. I printed at 90 with a longish model and lowering the bed temp stopped my separation. I was having issues and I don't have a glass bed.
My first four prints failed at the start, so I used Scotch wrinkle free glue stick and my print is working just fine. Thank you Scotch Wrinkle-Free glue stick. Active Oldest Votes.
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Please do comment if you have any more doubts. Jorge Cuevas Jorge Cuevas 1 1 silver badge 7 7 bronze badges. One thing that did help was making sure the HVAC vents near the printer were closed. Nicole Zeckner Nicole Zeckner 21 3 3 bronze badges. The Overflow Blog. Podcast Programming tutorials can be a real drag. Featured on Meta. Community and Moderator guidelines for escalating issues via new response….
Feedback on Q2 Community Roadmap. Related 6. Hot Network Questions. Question feed.Does anybody have special tips for PETG? I'm printing something now and it seems it's either scraping from the buildplate or getting stuck to my nozzle. It looks bad. When I had material scraping from the buildplate I increased nozzle and bed temp.
Now I am printing the third 3DBenchy and it looks good. I was also having my clear PETG turning out white. I am going to try a print tonight and print hotter. I print on a glass plate with some Elmer's glue stick, and have never had a problem with getting the first layer to stick.
There are lots of good tips here, but I feel like saying that PETG is mostly just a lot more fickle, because it sticks so well to the nozzle, and then comes off in big clumps. It's a sticky mess, really, so you need to be printing great to get it to work well. But, it's a good chance to go from good to great at 3D printing. The two areas where I spent a lot of time when I was learning PETG was the bed leveling and getting the height of the first layer right and extrusion amount.
You need to print higher. If you can't get it to stick, then try cleaning the blue tape with some alcohol first I have an old di3, with just aluminum bed. I didn't measure the cubes, I just looked at them for quality. Actually, I think I used a 10mm cylinder Anyway that worked for me.
Oh edit - 3. Now I have a microswiss all metal hot end installed and it prints great, with less sticking on the nozzle and easier cleaning. What seems to make all the difference is the harder and more "slippery" nozzle. I got a MSMP v2.3D Adventures - Cura for Wanhao Settings
Prints stick great and release with a reasonable amount of effort. I've had remarkably few problems with PETG sticking to the stock bed as long as I pay close attention to initial nozzle height above the bed - make sure the nozzle starts nice and close to the bed for the first layer so you get a good "squish" into the bed. I level the bed with a small piece of printer paper and aim for pretty heavy drag against the nozzle.
For PETG accumulating on the nozzle, I would first calibrate your extruder steps all done locally on the machine and then measure your filament diameter with a caliper and enter the filament diameter into your slicer.
That will make sure you aren't fighting overextrusion laying down too much material which has nowhere to go but collect on your nozzle. If you've done the extrusion tuning and you're still accumulating plastic on the nozzle during prints, another tip I have used to pretty good success is to buy a small bottle of Break Free CLP, thorougly heat and clean the exterior cone of the extruder nozzle, then rub a generous amount of CLP on it, wiping off the excess.
Increase your retractions, and reduce your extrusion multiplier a few percent.
Since this is over a year old my printing of petg has changed, and from my experience it takes a little testing to get PETG perfect, as i am not running a stock wanhao, i have a micro swiss, im running glass bed, thorped cooler, so my numbers probably wont be the same as yours.
Sorry but its a bit of trial and error. Thanks for replying. I have the same setup, and a few more bits and bobs I have been using KISS Slicer and have gotten really great prints from it with basically stock settings. That in itself is almost reason enough to try it. Anyhow, the one thing it does not do really well is custom supports- so I went back to S3D for a few prints with funky supports.
I tired translating the same settings I was using in KSS, but I am getting really ugly and obvious seams and joints, and there are some places I can not get 1st layer infill to 'close out' there are acute corners where it will just not fill in all the way.I set up my Wanhao I3 the other day and successfully printed the test print. Now im stuggling to find the correct settings or even a program to make gcode files on that recognises my printer at all, or allows me to customise the print area size.
I lower my designs to what would be the base plate and then save the file. I transfer it onto my sd and try to print.
The printer then goes to a higher point away from the heated base plate and starts printing. Does anyone have any tips for me to get this working? I cannot say for certain because we have yet to try to i3 series, but… I was talking with the manufacturers of Wanhao this morning and to their sale manager Merry Wanthey recommend Simplify3d to control the printer. This is what is happening. I put the file through cura. Create the G. When I do home all there is a A4 gap, then when it starts the print it rises and prints up in the air.
Really annoying me this now. Meant to be a good beginner printer but the instructions are terrible, take ages too find, and there are none troubleshoot solutions. Youtube has no solutions for me and the Wanhao youtube page is terriable, and hard to understand. But try changing the z offset in the printers control panel. Might work? I have been using Cura I did notice that I had to preheat the build plate before leveling as it would drop away too. This may not be the same as your issue but may help.
I found with my ctc machine I know different but when I went in the level bed procedure that it raised the z axis about 0. I really hope this helps! Ddi you ever solve this problem. My printer does the same for a few seconds as it spools out any old filament and then after about two seconds it goes back down to the plate and starts the print properly.
For people who have the same problem. The carriage which holds the nozzle was slanted. I just had to tighten a bolt at the left motor. So the left rod will spin again. And hold the carriage horizontal. This would help you remember even the finest details and you would never forget and struggle with your 3D printer.
Shibby August 6,pm 1. ScottObjectForm August 6,pm 2. Hey Shibby, I cannot say for certain because we have yet to try to i3 series, but… I was talking with the manufacturers of Wanhao this morning and to their sale manager Merry Wanthey recommend Simplify3d to control the printer. We have used this software to control all the 4 series so far and it is very very good.
Hope this helps Scott. For PLA the settings i use are similar to this and they have been working fine.I just got my Wanhao I3 printer some weeks ago, and most prints are going fine with the settings I have now. But I have noticed that if I use the recommended settings for some prints the the outcome looks like crap and the print breakes easily.
I am using Cura as slicer and there is quite a few settings there, so I was wondering what other people use and what thresholds I should stay within when printing. I know that this is not the first time this question has been asked, so links would be much appreciated.
I have found some links online, but some settings does not seem to add up. Did you refine your slic3r config file to work pretty flawlessly now? If so, do you mind sharing it with me? Hi Bizzar, I stumbled across this youtube cura setup for the i3 v2.
When I get a moment, I'm going to play with the nozzle temps a bit. There's another vid here that explains how to edit the gcode file to set increasing temperatures.
My settings are: Layer height: 0. I print at bed temp 60 and print temp Print speed 50mm. I considered experimenting with a faster speed but since it only knocked down the print time by a few minutes, it didn't seem worth changing.
I'm satisfied with my prints. When things do go wrong, I find that it is because the bed isn't level or there is something off about the model itself.
Changing orientation or adding supports sometimes solves the issue. I will also say that I usually print with the "raft" setting for adhesion type, not "brim. I figure that saves filament money and print time in the long run. Hi I have been printing for quite a while and my setting for the machine are as follows for pla. I mostly print on 30 degrees C on any masking tape I can get, with pritt glue stick gluestick added on top.
It I print a big print I print at higher bed temp like 60C. I print with the temp for the head at degrees, this is because the temperature fluctuates like between no idea. But when its like 40C outside I print at C.
Thanks guys, I will test some different settings and see if I manage to get a good "default" setup.
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Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account. A good clean description would be a plus! If you have one, please consider posting your printer profile. You can either post the settings manually, take screen shots of your configuration, or export your settings. I have a Wanhao, but I'm unsure about what exactly you need. If you give me a bit more info, I can help!
Also, a question, will this plugin adversely affect my prints in any way? I worry about the Y moves. Here is my profile I am using for my Maker Select v2. Layer Height:. Status: error.
Thanks for all of the information! Give me a while to collate all of this and I'll come up with my best guess for the printer profile settings. Hey, how does this printer prime? If it primes above the bed, can you tell me approx how high?
Retraction Length: 0. Abort snapshot when out of bounds - enabled Printer Position Tolerance - 0. If your printer primes at a height ABOVE your layer height, enter that value here, or enter a value slightly above your layer height 0.
Also, if you have already installed, please re-install.Machine settings data seems wrong for the Wanhao Duplicator i3. When starting a print with it the printer hangs while processing the start code due to some syntax error I guess.
Notice the travel speed which seems to be a variable which the printer doesn't understand just a guess - I'm not an expert in gcode. There's also a space in front of every line except the first - I guess this won't get parsed anyway but I think it's worth mentioning as there's no space for other machines.
Also have a look at the end g-code: There's some command missing to turn the heated bed off which seems rather dangerous. Printhead settings don't look plausible either; especially the gantry height. Last but not least the gcode flavour should be repetier but I think this doesn't matter.
I've been using a slightly modified just changed the Z-height to mm Prusa i3 machine setting for some years now which seems to work well with the Duplicator i3.
Here's a screenshot of that - just for the sake of completeness. I'm using the latest 64bit stable 3. To exclude any influences of previous cura installations I've deleted following folders before testing:. Well, all 3d party printers are contributed one way or another. We don't actually have the machines, so they don't get tested by Ultimaker in any way. Ok, thanks but that's beyond my skills. All I can do is to open an issue on git - maybe someone will find time to remove or change the wanhao profile.
There's still some end-gcode missing to turn off the heated bed and I guess the strange printhead settings remain unchanged. But thanks for the update. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Ultimaker. SandervG posted a topic in Official newsMarch Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts.
Here's a screenshot of the faulty original settings: Notice the travel speed which seems to be a variable which the printer doesn't understand just a guess - I'm not an expert in gcode.
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